Still not too crowded
Say Ko Phangan, and the first thing that comes to most people’s mind probably is crazy full-moon parties on the beach.
And yes, there still is a lot of partying going on. But the island has gone through some changes and nowadays it has a lot more than that to offer.
With that being said, Koh Phangan is still much less developed than some of the major Thai mass-tourism destinations. Like Koh Samui or Phuket.
Access mainly by boat
As the island does not have an airport yet, and is quite far from the mainland, it automatically excludes some potential visitors.
In my opinion that is a very positive thing, as the hordes of charter tourists that invades other parts of Thailand, never gets this far. It is just too complicated and inconvenient for them.
Inevitably, Ko Phangan is getting more and more exploited, with new resorts being built each year, side by side on the most popular beaches. But, there still are plenty of remote beaches and hideaways for those who are looking for solitude or/and a romantic getaway.
So if you want to experience more of that Robinson Crusoe lifestyle, opt for going to the east side of the island as it is surrounded by jungle and is more quiet and relaxed than the west coast.
Is Ko Phangan for everyone?
But what if you are travelling with kids – is there any point visiting Ko Phangan? Or is it just going to be thousands of “Farangs” dressed in neon clothes walking around the streets looking hung over?
To put it short and simple, YES there is! (Both a point, and Farangs with hang overs.)
Drug problems
Being one of the world’s most famous party destinations, Ko Phangan have for a long time had a reputation of being an island where drugs and partying go together.
Sadly, the problem of drugs has escalated in the last decades. As a consequence the widespread drug use has inevitably drawn the attention of the Thai Police that now has started to seriously cracking down on drugs by intensifying its drug searches on and around the island.
While it might feel tempting to “be a little crazy and try something new” while being far away from home, one should know that the Thai authorities takes drug use/dealing VERY seriously. (Yes, the Thai police is not the least corrupt Police Force in the world, we know that, but there are of course good exceptions.)
Not only will you get caught if you are in possession of or using drugs. You will most likely have to pay hefty fines or even end up in jail. Which in Thailand is not a pleasant accommodation.
So, if you absolutely must get stoned while exploring the world – well, why not travel to Canada instead. There it is legal nowadays.
Disclaimer – In no way do we encourage anyone of using drugs, it is immensely unnecessary, and it is not like it makes you any smarter either, even if you might think so right there and then. Believe me, I have seen the effects of excessive drug use in my previous law enforcement work and it is not pretty…
Anyway, back to reality and our own trip, which was something completely contrary to parties and drugs. Namely a quiet family vacation on the beautiful, mountainous island of Ko Phangan.
Three islands – different reasons
Most people come to Ko Phangan from one of the surrounding islands, Koh Samui or Koh Tao, with Ko Phangan being in the middle of the three.
As these islands are closest to Ko Phangan a lot of tourists makes some island-hopping before they head back to the mainland again.
Koh Samui has the most to offer when it comes to things to do, and you will find a lot more hotels to choose from. The downside is that it also sees a lot of charter tourism which, as mentioned, is not always a positive thing.
Koh Tao is a divers Mecca. And in many of the hotels on the small island you will have to share the pool with divers practicing before they take the big step into the Big Blue.
How to get to Ko Phangan
As Koh Samui is the largest island it also has the closest (and only) airport. Thus, if you want to visit Ko Phangan or Koh Tao, taking the ferry is the only option.
The ferry from Koh Samui to Ko Phangan takes half an hour and from Ko Phangan to Koh Tao it takes another hour.
As we are spending the fall and winter in Hua Hin we decided to take the bus from Hua Hin down to Chumphon and the ferry from there to Koh Phangan.
Not only was it a lot cheaper than flying. For us it was also the option that made most sense, as we otherwise would have had to make a three-hour drive north to Bangkok. Then fly from there to Koh Samui and then take the ferry from Samui to Koh Phangan.
Not a bad experience after all
The bus was operated by a company called Lomprayah and they handle both the bus and ferry transportation. So it is a rather hassle-free way of travelling as you only need to book one ticket.
It starts in Bangkok and makes one stop in Hua Hin before continuing down to Chumphon.
Our bus ride took about four hours and after that we had three hours on the catamaran ferry out to Ko Phangan.
Mixed reviews
We had read a lot of mixed reviews about this company before we left and some sounded worse than others.
Even so, we gave it a go and never experienced any big troubles along the way, except for a not so pleasant bus toilet. (Why some people/men insist on standing up while peeing on a moving bus is beyond me. And if you just have to, well, clean up your s**t afterwards…)
There was very little time that we had to wait between the bus and ferry transfer and the staff were polite and effective. The only real setback was the ferry ride back home from Koh Phangan. Rough seas combined with a fast-going catamaran was not a very good combination.
So the family boss, not me, has now decided that from now on we will either drive or take a plane whenever we are going to a tropical island. We will see about that as the logistics and logic does not always add up. She will eventually change her mind… (More on the ferry ride later on.)
Koh Phangan is only 125 sq. km (48 sq. mi) so it’s a relatively small island. And with a population of 12,000 it is a lot more relaxed than its neighboring big brother Samui, regardless of the increase in tourists once or twice a month during the Full Moon parties.
What a bargain!
We found a hotel that was an absolute bargain.
We paid about 750 baht for a room/hut just by the beach.
During our stay, in the end of October, we had the restaurant and beach almost to ourselves some days. It felt a bit strange but at the same time it had an exclusive feeling to it as we were “on our own in paradise”. (Platitudes, platitudes, but it was brilliant!)
The hotel facilities and service were impeccable, and we ended up staying most of the week just hanging out close to the hotel as everything we needed was right there.
Of course, we had to go on some shorter adventures as it is unlike us to stay in one place for too long. But Milky Bay was special. And with two curious, restless kids running around, it made the day planning so much easier, as they had plenty to occupy themselves with on the premises.
Most of the staff was from Burma/Myanmar and they were so nice and caring. Especially towards our children.
We have talked about visiting Burma many times but never had that real urge before, until now. We read so many positive things about the Burmeese people (not military or politicians) and if they are anywhere close as kind as the hotel staff then Burma must be awesome.
How much for a ride?
Unlike in Hua Hin, tuk-tuk´s or songthaews on Ko Phangan, charge per person. And it comes as no surprise that this is more expensive.
Being low season, it made it easier to haggle with the drivers. One tactic, that is almost always working, is to pretend that you have made the upcoming trip earlier. Call it a white lie, as it is part of the game. 😊
Me -“How much to blablabla? “
Driver – “300 baht per person, so 600.”
Me, looking very surprised – “Nooo, what? Last week when we went it was only 400.”
Driver, quiet for a while, then looking slightly disappointed – “Hmmm, ok, 400, let´s go…”
It rarely is this smooth but you get the drift…
As Ko Phangan is a rather big island you could also consider renting a car or a motorbike. That will probably save you some money if you plan to do some major island exploring or if you are staying a longer period of time.
A good island for daytrips
One day we went up to Mae Haad Beach in the north west corner of the island. This is supposed to be one of the most beautiful beaches of Ko Phangan, but in all honesty, I think that epithet is slightly misjudging.
Sure, the beach is beautiful with palm trees and surrounding green hills, and the sand is not bad either. But this once isolated part of the island, only reachable on rough roads or by boat, seem to have changed a lot in the last ten years.
Nowadays the bad roads have turned into paved ones and there has been a brand-new luxury hotel built right on the beach. Secluded does not feel so secluded anymore.
That is just rubbish
We spoke to a Norwegian gentleman who came walking on the narrow stretch of sand that, on low tides, connects the Mae Haad Beach to the tiny island of Koh Ma.
He was carrying plastic bottles and other rubbish that he had picked up during his short walk on the beach.
“This used to be a fantastic place a decade ago”, he said.
“I have come here every year since then and it is just getting worse and worse. The corals are dying and the snorkeling is nowhere near what it used to be.”
He looked sad as he slowly walked away to the little beach café up by the palm trees, he threw all the junk into a trash bin and wandered off.
Sadly he was right
Me, Leo and Julia backtracked his footprints to Koh Ma to have a look ourselves.
There was garbage lying around everywhere in the bushes. It was terrible that no one took better care of the environment in a place like this.
We soon turned around again, passing some people coming up from the ocean with their snorkeling gear on.
I asked them how the visibility was, they just shook their heads.
“Bad” was the short answer.
Such a shame. I would not be surprised at all if tourists visiting Ko Phangan will be banned in some areas. Just as they already are in Maya Bay where overtourism has closed the beach indefinitely in an effort to save the severely damaged eco system.
Human kind, at its best…
Incredible sunset views
We decided to leave the beach and walk up to the 360-view point bar that was visible on a hill behind the beach. It looked pretty close so I estimated that it would not take much more than 30 minutes to get up there.
The sun was about to go down as it was late afternoon. If we hurried up, we would probably make it in time for the sunset.
To sum up our “little walk” in one sentence – It was pretty freakin´ steep most of the way. And hot and sweaty and dusty.
A perfect little family adventure.
Adventures on sea and land
As our resort had kayaks, we tucked the whole family into one single kayak one day and went on a short paddle along the shore.
Being in the middle of the day the sun was hot, so going on a long trip was not an option.
Leo, aka “the King”, soon decided that enough was enough and he wanted out of the kayak. So he took a walk on the beach while the rest of us paddled next to him.
Five years old and already has he developed an impressive amount of own will and stubbornness. I wonder where he got that from?
A minute later he quickly came back into the kayak though. Those stray dogs can scare even the bravest little monarch…
One big playground
The hotel area was very open with its grounds covered in sand which was perfect for both children. Julia has just started to walk, and falling over in sand is way better than faceplanting on cement or stone flooring.
Leo quickly made friends with some of the staff. They played ping pong and pool together many nights, when he was no occupied with plowing sand with his hands and feet.
He is becoming more and more independent and self-confident. It is really fun to see how much travelling has given him when it comes to wanting to explore the world on his own.
Gourmet cuisine
The food at Milky Bay was just delicious. We tried most of the Thai dishes and the pizzas, and the burgers, and the pasta, and the spring rolls etc etc…
We like our food. And this was easily one of the best restaurants we had tried in Asia.
Ok, this is starting to psound more and more like an add for the resort, but it was a nice place.
We had pretty much everything we needed for a calm and relaxed family holiday, on an tropical island, in the sun, on a fantastic beach.
What else could you ask for?
The sunsets were striking red/orange. Just next doors there was this basic, small beachfront bar were you only could sit on cushions on the hard wooden floor, or lay in one the hammocks, overlooking the sea.
Soft reggae music was playing from a couple of large and very torn speakers. They were placed on the sandy floor next to a tree that stood in the middle of the bar, growing right through the ceiling above.
We ordered a couple of mojitos, and mango smoothies for the kids, as we watched the sun go down in the far distance, A magical moment. (It lasted about fifteen minutes, then the kids wanted to get going again and the drinks were left half-full on the table.)
BUT, until we had to leave, it was perfect.
We had no were else were we needed to be, and nothing else that we wanted to do. We could just sit there, the whole family, sipping our drinks, watching the amazing views and listening to the waves rolling in underneath the floor.
It is moments like these that stays in your memory for a long, long time. And it is having moments like these that is the reason why we love to travel.
The week pasted quickly and we had to return to Hua Hin again as juniors autumn brake was over. It was time to go back to kindergarten again.
Not a joyride
We took the same way back as we came and started with the three hour ferry ride, via Koh Tao, to the mainland. We found some nice seats in the front with plenty of leg-room, “Not a bad start of the trip” went through my mind. Jinx, jinx, jinx.
In the next instant a big wave lifted up the catamaran and made the backpacks stuffed in the front of the cabin tumble down all over the floor. This continued for three hours.
By the time we reached the mainland Fariba and Julia had puked four times each and Leo once. He saved one more for the bus though as his stomach kept wobbling for another hour.
Having nice seats is nice. But sitting in the front of a boat that is airborne more time than it is in the water, is not always the best option. Lessons learned…
Peaceful end
The bus ride to Hua Hin was much better. We got some blankets and were finally able to eat the take-away sandwiches that we had brought from the hotel.
The kids were already sleeping when the bus stopped outside the bus station in Hua Hin. It felt like coming home again.
It is interesting to see how fast you get used to living in new places. I guess home is where your backpack is…
FMP or HMP?
In case you have read this far without falling asleep, here is some extra festivities facts for you:
IF you are looking for a Full Moon Party and not a family holiday, then Haad Rin Beach is the place!
Once a month the beach gets packed with thousands and thousands of party revelers who paint themselves in UV paint and then go drinking and dancing until sunrise.
And if you are unlucky enough to miss out on the main FMP, then you always have the option to go on a Half Moon Party instead. Unlike the main event that is held on the beach, the HMP is held inland. In the middle of the jungle in Baan Tai. Either one of the two options will most likely keep you occupied all night long…
Plain and simple
Besides from the hotel we did try some other restaurants as well. While being on a long walk we needed to refuel and found this little gem.
Ann’s restaurant on the main street.
From the outside, and inside, the place looks kind of basic to say the least.
But the kind of food this restaurant produced, and in that kitchen!? It left us open-mouthed. How is it even possible?
A special thanks to the Tripadvisor community for this great tip-off!
